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There are
usually two major reasons why you are choosing another forced-air furnace. The
first is that your furnace does not function. It has just broken down,
irrevocably, or it has been “red-tagged” or condemned by gas inspectors. If
it is winter and your house is getting colder quickly, you may not have the
luxury of making a reasoned choice on what to buy next. The other situation is
that your furnace is getting old, or your fuel bills are becoming too excessive
to tolerate. In this case, you have the time to shop around and get the best
furnace and fuel for your situation. This “About
Your House” is written for both situations. If you have a dead furnace and a
chilly house, you will probably take some shortcuts in your selection process. Choice of fuelsFor many years,
CMHC and others could offer sound advice on what fuel choice would be the most
economical. During that period, heating systems based on electricity or propane
cost the most to operate, heating oil was somewhat more economical, and natural
gas (if available in your community) was the least expensive choice. Since 2000,
the prices of these commodities have been fluctuating wildly, and it is
difficult to offer reliable advice on pricing. At one point in 2001/2002,
heating with electricity in Furnace sizingYou probably do
not need a furnace with the output of your current furnace. Most furnaces in
Canadian houses can provide far more heat than the house requires. A properly
sized conventional or midefficiency furnace will be running almost continuously
during the coldest day of the winter. Having a furnace of a correct size will
result in efficient operation during the whole heating season. A grossly
oversized furnace will run only for a short period, never coming up to peak
efficiency. Note, however, that sizing may not be an issue with high-efficiency,
condensing gas furnaces. Due to the design of condensing appliances, they are
efficient even when oversized. So, how do you
size your furnace? You can have the contractor use a home heat loss calculation
that is available from Canadian Standards Association (CAN/CSA F280) or a sizing
procedure from the Heating, Refrigeration, and Air Conditioning Institute of
Canada (HRAI). Having a proper sizing will cost you $150-$300 from a qualified
contractor. For those who
keep their heating bills, and who are mathematically inclined, try the
calculation in the sidebar entitled “Calculating
house heat loss from utility bills”. Furnace efficiencyThere is a wide
range of furnace efficiencies, although the conventional, standard-efficiency
gas furnaces can no longer be sold in Oil furnaces
have become far more efficient since the height of their popularity in the
mid-twentieth century. Efficiencies have risen from roughly 60 per cent to well
over 80 per cent due to advanced technologies, first to flame retention head
burners and then to high static pressure burners. The more efficient oil
furnaces require a better chimney than their conventional counterparts, so you
will probably need to upgrade the chimney with a stainless steel liner inside
the old clay tile. Make sure this is included in the quote. Failure to have a
properly sized chimney will result in excessive chimney condensation and
eventual destruction of masonry chimneys. There are high efficiency, condensing
oil furnaces as well. They are not currently recommended by Natural Resources
Canada in their publication “Heating with Oil” due to problems with
reliability. New gas furnaces
in So . . . what do I buy?Here are the
most common questions about furnace replacements to CMHC staff from Canadians
and our usual answers: 1.
Should I switch my heating fuel? In most parts of
2. Some dealers are recommending a furnace of 100,000 BTU/h and
some say 80,000 BTU/h will be fine. How do I choose?
See the discussion on sizing above. If you are buying an oil furnace or a midefficiency gas furnace, proper sizing will affect the durability and efficient operation of your appliance.Your choices are either to pay for a proper heat loss analysis, calculate house heat loss, or accept the dealer's estimate. Sometimes government or utility programs subsidize house testing, such as the NRCan Energuide for Houses tests. If such a program is in effect in your vicinity, this can be an economical way to have your house heating load established. 3. Is it
better to buy a high efficiency or a mid-efficiency gas furnace? Surveys in the
last several years show that the incremental cost to purchase a high efficiency
gas furnace over a mid-efficiency model is in the order of $300 to $1,000. Given
the gas prices through the 1990s, this price increase would take five or more
years to pay back through the lower operating costs of high efficiency furnaces.
As natural gas prices increase, it becomes increasingly easier to recommend high
efficiency appliances. Other reasons for choosing high efficiency appliances
include their lack of chimney, their ability to operate safely in newer,
airtight housing (where chimney performance can be affected by negative
pressures), and the apparent longevity of their plastic venting systems. 4. Is
Furnace “A” better than Furnace “B”? How can
I find that out? There is little or no available data to show that one
manufacturer's furnace will operate longer and with less trouble than a furnace
from another manufacturer. This is frustrating for consumers. We are used to
being able to read ratings of one product versus another product and to make a
choice based on those ratings. However, a good furnace will last 25 years. A
poor one may break down prematurely at 15 years. With lifetimes of this length,
and with furnace design and model changes, it is hard to predict which furnace
will provide the best service. There are two factors to help you in your choice.
Pick a furnace with a long heat exchanger warranty, 20 years or more. If the
manufacturer is willing to back the most expensive part of their appliance for a
long time, this should inspire some confidence. Also, pick a furnace
manufacturer and a dealer that have been in business for a significant period of
time. A furnace with a lifetime warranty offered by a company which has been in
operation for only three years may not be the best deal. One would expect to pay
less for this level of uncertainty. Look for contractors with memberships in
trade organizations such as HRAI, which would indicate an interest in
professional qualifications. The hot water heater conundrumThere are very
few high-efficiency hot water heaters available. Changing your furnace may lead
to having to think about your hot water heater. Existing hot water heaters are
often located vertically below the kitchen and bathrooms, where the water is
used. If you are changing from an electric to a conventional gas hot water tank,
and the new gas appliance has to move across the basement to be near the
chimney, you will be waiting longer for the hot water at the tap. Consider a gas
hot water tank that has sidewall venting, and does not require a chimney. This
way it can stay close to the plumbing appliances that use it. Another hot
water tank issue is when you switch from a conventional gas furnace and hot
water tank to a new, high-efficiency sidewall vented furnace. Now the hot water
tank has to heat up that big chimney all by itself, and you probably will have
to pay for chimney relining. It is often better, when choosing a chimneyless
furnace, to switch your hot water tank to sidewall venting at the same time and
seal the old chimney closed. However, sidewall vented hot water heaters are more
expensive than conventional hot water heaters and can be noisier. Furnace circulating fan choicesMost furnace
circulating fans consume high amounts of electricity (300-700 watts). If you
will be using your furnace circulating fan to move ventilation air around the
house (for instance, if you have a heat recovery ventilator connected to it, or
a high efficiency air cleaner on the furnace), then look at upgrading the
circulating fan to a high efficiency DC motor. The best furnace fans now will
use less than 100 W on low speed. This will result in considerable electrical
savings over the life of the furnace. Other choicesWhen replacing
the furnace, you may want to look at integrated systems that heat your house,
your water and provide ventilation. Devices known as “combo” units provide
house and water heating. New appliances with advanced, integrated systems will
provide ventilation as well as space and water heating. For some replacements,
these integrated appliances will be your best choice. For further
detailed information on all heating appliances, there are excellent booklets
published by Natural Resources Canada in the Home Heating and Cooling Series,
some of which are cited in this About Your House. These can be obtained from
NRCan or viewed on the NRCan Web site at: http://energy-publications.nrcan.gc.ca/index_e.cfm Calculating house heat loss from utility billsHere is a sample
calculation, using the a three month meter reading for a typical house. You can
use any period (but at least two weeks of winter weather is necessary). You can
either read the meter yourself for the information, look at your furnace bills,
or phone your utility to see if they have appropriate records. The natural gas
usage of other gas-fired appliances in the houses is estimated from gas utility
data and subtracted from the total for the period in question, so that the gas
requirement for heating could be isolated. (Oil furnaces are harder to size
using this method but it may be possible using oil fill-up intervals and the
number of litres delivered.) The goal is to
find a relationship between the gas consumed and the heating degree days (HDD).
A heating degree day is essentially the number of degrees of heating required
over the course of 24 hours and is compared to a reference temperature of 18°C.
For example, if the average daily outside temperature is 10°C, then the number
of heating degree days for that day is 18°C - 10°C = 8 HDD. The HDD are
available from Environment Canada data. You can get the approximate HDD for that
period from their Web site at: http://dd.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/climate/monthly Summaries
or you can find the exact heating degree days for your billing period by calling
the Environment Canada pay-for-use number 900 565-5555, where it will cost you
$3.00 - $6.00 for the information. Once the relationship of the HDD and gas
consumption is established, then you can calculate gas consumption for design
temperature in your area, which is usually available from Environment Canada, a
mechanical contractor, or your local building officials. You substitute this
into the equations below. The example uses a Saskatoon design temperature of -35°C
(which works out to 35°C + 18°C= 53°C). Calculating the size of the furnace
necessary on the coldest day of the year will mean that the furnace has the
capacity to handle any expected local temperature. Example:
Calculating fuel costHere is a rough
comparison of the relative costs of heating an older house in Ottawa. You can
put in your own fuel prices and the efficiencies of the appliance that you are
choosing to compare relative costs. Notes: It is
often difficult to isolate the charge per unit of fuel, be it gas or
electricity. Include all the costs that relate to the m3 of
consumption for gas (for example, gas supply charge, gas delivery charges, gas
surcharges). Electric utilities often also have a bewildering range of charges.
Apply all the charges except fixed charges (for example, $10/month connection
charge).
For oil
appliances, use 38.2 MJ/litre of oil. For electricity, use 3.6 MJ/kWh and 100
per cent efficiency. Note: 80 GJ (or
80 gigajoules) is the energy required for heating the example house over the
winter. Your own house will likely be different. However, the relative costs
calculated for alternative fuels and furnaces in the example house should help
you make a selection for your house. |
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